The intake pipes are flat flared at the ends that connect to the heads.  They are held in place with pressure rings bolted to the heads.  Each pressure ring is recessed (see yellow arrow) to fit nearly flush against the gasket when the flare is seated in the recess.

There is a potential problem in that the tubing can be slightly misaligned with the ring so that the flare rides outside the recess.  The green arrow shows the flare of the intake tube outside the recess and the yellow arrow shows the recess with extra space because of the misalignment.

You can see the gap (at the arrow point) that results if they are misaligned  That would further result in an intake leak at that cylinder.  FADEC would compensate because it automatically adjusts the mixture for the individual cylinder according to EGT, but the engine would still not run properly.  The typical outcome is an excessively lean cylinder and all the bad things that result from that.

The properly seated intake seats against the gasket with no gap.  Looks better - feels better.

Installing the intake tubes is a matter of sliding them into hoses that have been installed on the cold air intake.  It's a tight fit.

I had to twist the tubes back and forth several times to get them far enough into the hoses to fit up to the ports on the heads.

The installation of the intakes is something you just have to struggle with a little until it fits without tension.

Next, it's just a matter of bolting the intake tubes to the heads and torquing them to the proper spec.

I just had to add one more picture of me struggling with the intake tube.  No, it doesn't go there!

Every tool must have a name.  I named this tool that Kirk made, the Too Far Tool.  When I pushed the hose onto the cold air intake too far, it took the Too Far Tool to push it back...

Finally, hose clamps are added to secure the hoses to the cold air intake and the intake tubes - not too much pressure - just enough will do.

What am I doing here?  Oh, just installing clamps on another intake.

The dip stick tube is screwed into place and tightened.

It needs to be safety wired at the bottom to keep it from working loose when unscrew that over tightened dip stick.

I chose to use a solid piece of stainless tubing (as opposed to a hose) for the oil line to the prop governor.  It comes pre-bent and even has a little piece of tape to show you where to clamp it to the engine.

One end is attached to the prop governor. pad.

While the oil line is being attached is a good time to double check that the snap ring is in place on the governor. drive shaft - it is.

An Adel Clamp secures the oil line at the designated spot.

Farther along the way, the governor. oil line needs another clamp, but this one is a little different.  You start by placing a piece of split hose over the line.

A simple little hook clamp is bolted to the engine applying pressure on the hose covering the oil line.  It's a curious thing, but that what the plan calls for and it works.

This is the FADEC speed sensor.

The sensing is accomplished these 4 magnetic pickups that sense the holes in the FADEC timing gear that we installed earlier.  There really are 4 separate sensors here, so there is redundancy.

The engine comes with studs for mounting magnetos in the mag drive holes.  The FADEC speed sensor is going to require different studs, but the engine comes with a package of replacement studs in a couple of sizes.

Kirk has this neat piers-like tool he got from Snapon.  It has the grip to hold the stud you are removing without slipping.  The more pressure you put on it, the tighter it gets and it really does work great.  There's another tool I just have to have.

The new studs are screwed in.  They do need sealant on the stud thread because the holes go through to the oil chamber.  Yep, another good place for a leak, but sealing the threads fixes that.

One mag hole gets a cover that is supplied with the FADEC system.

Here you can see the FADEC timing gear in the mag drive hole, but there is a little snafu.  The FADEC speed sensor can't be installed with the studs in place.  Because the speed sensor has to be angled into the hole in order to go on top of the timing gear, it won't fit over the studs.  The solution is that the new studs are not really installed until the speed sensor is in place.  That doesn't sound too good from a maintenance standpoint.  I suppose one could use bolts instead of studs, but finding bolts that fit stud threads might be a problem and it's not according to spec.

The FADEC speed sensor is installed.  The studs are partially installed.  All that is left is to sink the studs and torque the nuts.

A few more safety wire jobs remain such as the lifter lock bolts shown below.

A temporary oil drain plug is inserted.  The quick drain will be added later.

 That is about a wrap for this part of the building process.

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